Cook Islands

21.24° S, 159.78° W

Rarotonga has mountains, markets and an easy coastal road; Aitutaki, a short flight away, has one of the most beautiful lagoons in the Pacific. The Cook Islands are smaller and more low-key than French Polynesia, with resorts to match.

Best season
Apr–Nov
Getting there
Rarotonga (RAR) + inter-island flights
Currency
New Zealand Dollar (NZD)
Typical stay
7–10 nights

Planning a Cook Islands trip

The Cook Islands are 15 islands in free association with New Zealand, using the New Zealand dollar, and almost every visitor sees two of them. Rarotonga, the main island, has forested peaks, a lagoon fringe, villages and a coast road you can circle in under an hour. Aitutaki, to the north, is quieter, flatter and famous for its vast triangular lagoon. The pace is relaxed and the resorts are small, which suits couples, families on a moderate budget and anyone who would trade butlers for character.

When to go

April to November is the most comfortable window, with the driest, coolest weather from about May to October. December to March is hot and humid, with a cyclone risk. Lagoon cruises on Aitutaki usually run Monday to Saturday, and Sunday is a quiet church day across the islands, so plan cruise days around the weekend.

Getting there

Air New Zealand flies nonstop from Auckland every day in just under four hours, adding extra services from June to October, and Jetstar flies from Auckland and Sydney. International arrivals often land late at night, so a first night on Rarotonga is sensible. Air Rarotonga then reaches Aitutaki in about 50 minutes, usually with around three flights each way a day.

Where to base yourself

  • Muri, Rarotonga: the sheltered south-east lagoon, with paddleboards, kayaks and a busy night market several evenings a week.
  • Titikaveka, Rarotonga: a quieter south-coast beach with small boutique resorts, still close to Muri's restaurants.
  • Aitutaki main island: beachfront bungalows close to the cruise departures.
  • Akitua motu, Aitutaki: the country's only private island resort and its only overwater bungalows.

Rarotonga's clockwise and anticlockwise buses make a car optional.

How long to stay

Seven to ten nights is typical. On a ten-night trip we'd give Rarotonga six and Aitutaki four; on a week, four and three. Three nights is the shortest Aitutaki stay we'd book, since it guarantees one full day on the lagoon. A day tour from Rarotonga is possible, but it misses the quiet early mornings and evenings that make the island special.

Where to start